|From Cochon Butcher|
My copy of Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link’s Louisiana arrived last Thursday, and I was like a kid opening his first gift on Christmas morning, shuffling for something to open the box with, flinging aside the bubble wrap to stare into a beautifully photographed crock of Gumbo. The title is in big bold white letters REAL CAJUN, as if to say, ok, enough with the blackening already, enough with the notion that everything Cajun is super spicy, enough with the Bourbon Chicken in the food courts; let’s get down to the nitty gritty. Real Cajun, rustic, simple, home cooked meals.
It seems only fitting that the Chef owner of Cochon, and Cochon Butcher (no, I’m not forgetting Herbsaint), would have homemade Bacon as the first recipe in his cookbook, with the first “chapter” bearing the title La Vie Cochon, with recipes including Tasso, Boudin, Pork Belly Cracklins, and more. The most mouthwatering recipe in this chapter, in my humble opinion, is Smothered Pork Roast over Rice, a simple recipe based on his Granny’s preparation, with a photo so beautiful that I swear you will try to lick the wooden spoon before the sauce drips back into the pot.
I have to admit that I was a little disappointed that he didn’t include more Charcuterie than he did, but I totally understand why he didn’t, keeping it practical for the home cook I guess. (I have my fingers crossed for a follow up book surrounding Louisiana Charcuterie, or a Cochon cookbook.) Don’t get me wrong though, the Charcuterie recipes that are included, Bacon, Boudin, Tasso, Deer Sausage, etc.. are top notch, I can’t wait to try Chef Link’s Boudin recipe, the photo is outstanding as are all of the photos in this book all by Chris Granger. I was looking for Chef Link’s Andouille, Hog’s Head Cheese, and Creole Mustard, but the recipes that filled these spaces totally made up for it and more.
The book’s recipes are wonderful in their simplicity (this is not a restaurant cookbook, although some of the dishes from his restaurants appear) with beautiful photographs that make me long to be in the stifling heat of Louisiana everytime I look at them. Some of the photographs from the book are hanging on the walls of Chef Link’s private dining facility Calcasieu, which is next store and upstairs from Cochon Butcher.
|From Cochon Butcher|
Real Cajun is mostly cookbook and part memoir, which all builds wonderfully around the recipes, just the kind of cookbook that I love, and reminiscent of another favorite of mine, Marcelle Bienvenu’s Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic, and Can You Make A Roux? What comes through in both books is a love of Louisiana, real Cajun cuisine, family, and tradition.
This book is loaded with great recipes, I’ve tried out a few of them now, all were absolutely outstanding. Including Catfish Fried in Bacon Fat. The bacon fat adds an incredible richness to the crisp and moist catfish without taking over the flavor. I also made my own Tartar sauce as an accompaniment with crumbled Bacon added to it; what the hell right, the cholesterol meter is already broken. This is probably the best Catfish that I’ve made:
|From Nola Cuisine|
|From Nola Cuisine|
I also made the Chicken & Dumplings, a lot of great technique in this recipe, the best I thought was putting the pan into a 450 degree F oven to finish the dumplings. The stew is very similar to my recent Chicken Fricassee recipe, but the real magic happens when the dumpling batter is added and the whole pan is popped into the 450 oven. By the way, I made this for my wife and my Mom & Dad last night and they said the dumplings reminded them of Thanksgiving Stuffing, I agree. Awesome flavor with the addition of dried Oregano and raw minced onion.
|From Nola Cuisine|
I also used the Buckle recipe, but used Blueberries as they were the best fruit that I could find, his is made with fresh Peaches which aren’t in season right now. The Blueberry Buckle was dessert last night with good strong French Market Coffee, following the Chicken & Dumplings.
|From Nola Cuisine|
All in all, I haven’t been this inspired by a Louisiana cookbook since first reading the year 2000 publication of Commander’s Kitchen by Ti Adelaide Martin and the late great Jamie Shannon.
I don’t recommend just anything, but I really think that this a great book, loaded with not only great recipes, but stories to go with each one. My copy is already getting a little worn, the page with the buckle recipe has some dried egg white on it, the back cover has a sticky substance from my kitchen counter. All signs of a good cookbook I guess.
Be sure and check out my ever growing Index of Creole & Cajun Recipes which links to all of the recipe featured on this site!
Also take a look at my Bibliography of Creole & Cajun Cookbooks!by
22 thoughts on “Real Cajun: Rustic Home Cooking from Donald Link’s Louisiana”
This looks great-I agree that a Charcuterie book would be really cool as well. Can’t wait to pick it up.
I got this book last week too. Immediately sat down and read it cover to cover. It’s definately a keeper! I’m going to enjoy playing with these recipes for a long time.
Great review, and great pictures. I picked up a copy at Cochon Butcher, but I haven’t had a chance to really sit down with it yet.
I went to the bookstore tonight just to find the new cookbook. I was disappointed and glad I didn’t pay $35 to buy it. I think Paul Prudhomes cookbooks have very similar recipes and even more. I just wasn’t impressed enough to buy it for 1 or 2 recipes. Sorry :o(
if you think catfish is good fried in bacon fat try fried chicken
I got mine in last week as well and have already gone through a few recipes myself. I’ve lived in Georgia now and after a year away from Louisiana a book like this is just what I’ve needed. I never wake up in the middle of the night, but no lie, I just did because I had a remarkably vivid Central Grocery dream and I just can’t get back to sleep! Chef Link’s recipes are super easy for home cooks (what are cajun cooks anyway, right?) as well great points of departure for pros. Great read! Gotta love that chocolate bread pudding…
My wonderful daughter brought me a signed first edition home with her for Father’s Day. It has been a great read and I’m looking forward to trying the recipes.
Great post thank you (why i cant subscribe to your feed ? i keep getting an error)Thanks
This is a great book. I have blasted through about twenty of the recipes. They have been all good. The fried catfish is ridiculous. had I go by more and invite my friends over to have some. The okra and tomatoes are the best I have had. Like I have said it is a very good cookbook. Thanks Chef Link for some more recipes for when I open my place up.
I love that, even though there was a professional writer assisting, the “voice” is definitely Don Link’s. There are expressions I haven’t heard since childhood — like “wash you hands off” and “catch on fire”. Like others, I read it cover to cover. There are recipes here that I’ve never seen in print, like the pork roast cooked in a roux-based gravy. This is a wonderful book.
The fried chicken livers with pepper jelly glaze are out of this world.
I bought a copy of “Real Cajun” about 2 months ago at Sam’s, gotta good price.
Chef Donald Link seems like a real down to earth guy.
My favorite picture is the fish camp on page 146.
My favorite recipe is the Crab cakes with Jalapeno Remoulade and the Chicken and Dumplings.
I like the family atmosphere that is through out the book.
Way to go Donald!
I agree. I’ve done the brisket-which is the ultimate in simplicity and then did it for the monthly cooking class. The chocolate yummy-sold forty orders of it at $9.00 a slice two weeks ago and i get phone calls and emails demanding we do it again. The only thing I’ve done from it so far that did not turn out was the lemon meringue pie-but I’m sure I’m at fault-will try again. I must say that I really enjoy Susan Spicer’s book-it’s a bit more involved for the most part but everything “works”.
Ok, I know I’m late in catching up here, but I need to add this to my collection.
Thanks for the complete and thorough review.
I am definitely buying his cookbook. Checked it out at the library and everything we have tried is off the charts. The whitebean, ham, and collard stew was a big hit as well as the oyster blt’s, oh and I almost forgot that incredible meatloaf. We are excited to eat at one of the restaraunts when in New Orleans.
I love Nola! has anyone seen the article that was just in Portland Magazine about Emeril and Nola? Check it out, its a great piece on Emeril, Cajun food and how he got his start. http://www.portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2010/06/acadias-cajuns/
This will be added to my “to-do” list. I’ve always been a big fan of cajun foods. Thanks for the ideas.